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Truffles: what are these fragrant white balls?
Truffles: the Mozart of Mushrooms
With the coming of fall we move into the principal season of truffles, those highly fragrant little balls that are greatly prized by connoisseurs of the table. Just what are truffles? They are fungi of the genus Tuber which grow underground, and live in symbiosis with the roots of trees, generally oaks, poplars, lindens (bass trees), and willows, (though they can also be found under hazelnuts, beeches and sometimes conifers). The characteristic color, flavor and odor of truffles depend on the type of tree they live under. For example, those found under oaks have a deep, penetrating smell, while those found near lindens are lighter and more aromatic. Their form depends on the type of soil they grow in; if it is soft, they will be smoother, whereas if the ground is compact and they lack space, they will be knotty and lumpy. Though they are most abundant in the autumn, there are also spring, summer and winter species. Truffles go back a long way in culinary history. They were already known by the ancient Sumerians and Hebrews of 1700 – 1600 B.C.E. The Athenians loved them so much it is said they conferred their much-prized citizenship on the sons of a slave who had invented a new truffle recipe. The propagation of truffles was a great mystery, and there were many theories on their growth and development. Plutarch advanced the theory that they are formed by the combined action of water, heat and lightning. Through the years, many natural philosophers (Pliny, Martial, Juvenal, and Galen, to name a few of the most noted) debated their origins, with the result that they were covered with so much mystery that it was not known if they were plants or animals. In later times they were even considered a degenerative soil outgrowth and poisonous. In many places in the Middle Ages, black truffles especially were not eaten because they were thought to be of diabolic origin and the food of witches. However, Pope Gregory IV used them widely at his table, officially to “compensate for the energy spent fighting the Saracens”. They were re-discovered by the popes in Avignon, and gained in popularity throughout the Renaissance, though the real rage for truffles began in the 17th century. The Count of Cavour used them as a diplomatic instrument in his political activities. Giacchino Rossini called the truffle the Mozart of mushrooms; he is quoted as saying, “I have wept three times in my life. Once when my first opera failed. Once again, the first time I heard Paganini play the violin. And once when a truffled turkey fell overboard at a boating picnic.” Lord Byron reportedly kept a truffle on his desk because the odor promoted his creativity, and Alexander Dumas defined the truffle the “Sancta Santorum” of the table. They have often been attributed with aphrodisiacal properties, though perhaps that is more due to their price than to any specific nutritional factor! Here in Tuscany there are at least 6 commonly found species of truffles, including a subspecies of the highly prized white truffle. Truffles are now generally hunted with dogs, instead of pigs. Apart from the fact that most people find it more enjoyable to stroll through the woods with a dog than a pig, there is another great advantage to using dogs: though they need to be trained to search for the odor of truffles (pigs do not), they usually do not try to eat the truffles once they find them! The precious white truffle is generally eaten raw, grated over a dish just before serving. The other truffles can also be used this way, but they are also often used in cooking, in appetizers, pasta dishes, meat dishes and vegetables. Try our recipe for “Yadda yadda yadda”, easy and delicious! New truffle facts:
truffles are born in the thunderstorms of July & August . They need 40-90 days to develop. If they go too fast they are spongy and have less flavour. They want an autumn that is cold and not too wet.
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Contributor's Note
If you have never tried fresh truffles you are missing out one of the most refined flavours you can experience!
Laura Cardosi
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White Truffle in Tuscany
PLEASE VISIT THE CONTRIBUTOR'S WEBSITE
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